Making Button Loops for the Retazo Coat

While we’re in the business of being scrappy with our materials for the Retazo Coat and Vest, it’s a good time to talk about alternative closures! Most of us have more buttons in our notions jars than we do sew-in snaps, and if those buttons are calling out to you to be used, you can use them!

Sewing a buttonhole through many layers of quilted fabric is not for the faint of heart. Ask me how I know! But button loops can add to the whimsey of our final garment and allow these precious stash buttons to shine. The buttons are not centred, since the Retazo Coat has an overlap at the center front. Depending on the button size and the size you’re making, the buttons will be secured to the wearer’s left front, creating an asymmetric front closure.

You’ll sew the button loops to the Front of the Coat/Vest BEFORE you add the Facings. They’ll be sandwiched between the Front and the Front Facing, so the ends are neatly hidden between the layers. The tutorial is below, but if you want a little extra help with making these tiny little loops, take a look at our Rouleau Loops tutorial HERE.

To get started, you’ll need around 7 buttons (between 5 and 9, depending on their size and your preferred button spacing. Measure the button around its top, bottom, and sides. You can do this with a string, and then measure its length, or wrap it with your measuring tape. You need to know the circumference of the button depth-wise (not around the circle of its face), so it fits through the button loop. Add 1 1/4″ (3.2 cm) (5/8″ (1.6 cm) seam allowance times two) to that number for your loop cut length.

To make the button loops, use a fabric that is abrasion resistant and a bit sturdy. You want it to withstand the buttoning and unbuttoning without wearing out too quickly. You’re essentially making a slightly larger than usual rouleau loop.

How to Make Button Loops

1) Cut a long piece of your chosen fabric ON THE BIAS, about 2″ wide and a decent amount longer than you’ll need for one or two of the button loops’ cut length… or all of the lengths required if you can cut it all on one go! Making loops can cause the ends to be messy, so it’s better to make them longer than needed, and then cut them to length.

2) fold the bias strip(s) right sides together. Sew along the length, 1/4″ from the fold, gently stretching the fabric strip as you sew. This will prevent the stitches from breaking as you use the button loops.

3) trim the seam allowance to be 1/4″ wide. Don’t trim smaller than that, or the fabric might fray as you use the button loops.

4) turn the loop piece(s) right side out, using a tube turner or your preferred method.

5) press and steam the loops well, letting them soften into the length and shape that the fabric wants to.

6) when the pieces are cool, cut them to your loop cut length.

7) fold each loop in half, and align it with your desired placement on the right Front, aligning the raw edges of the Loop with the raw edges of the right Front.

8) Baste the loop in place, sewing within the seam allowance, and sewing back and forth a few times to reinforce the loop’s position and prevent the need for future repairs.

9) continue sewing the Retazo Coat/Vest as usual, so the Loops will end up enclosed between the layers of Front and Front Facing.

10) when you get to the last step in the instructions, instead of sewing on snaps, align the jacket Fronts and mark the button placement. Sew the buttons in place, making a thread shank if the buttons don’t have a shank.

This change is simple to do, but has huge visual impact! Happy sewing!