Fitting the Greenbrier Dress

The Greenbrier Dress’s fit is full of ease, for a flowy and comfortable silhouette. The wide sleeves end with a hem (View A) or a cuff (View B), and the gathered skirt has two length options: just below or just above the knee. The waist seam is high, an inch or two higher than the body waist.

View A is an easier sew, with rouleau neck ties. View A’s sleeves are uncuffed, with a straight edge, making them a perfect place to feature textiles with a lace edge or border design. View B has rouleau button loops on the front closure, backed with a guard.

Choosing a Size

Even when a garment is easy fitting, it’s worth taking some time to think through the size selection. Perhaps you see your measurements are fitting into a few different sizes. Keep the shoulder in mind, like the instructions direct, because we want the bodice portion, especially the neckline, to fit nicely. If you know that your shoulders are narrow and your measurements are in different sizes, go with the smaller size and adjust the circumferences if needed. It there’s only one size in between, you’ll probably be fine sticking with one size. If there are larger jumps, then choosing the smaller size and doing an FBA may be just the thing!

If your bust and waist fit into one size, and your hip is in another size, you could just use the skirt size for the bust and waist(especially if your hip is in a smaller size!), or you could use the skirt portion that matches your hip size, especially if your hip is in a larger size than your bust and waist.

Perhaps your waist and hip are in one size, and your full bust size is two sizes or more fuller. That also could be a good time to do an FBA – the added length and circumference will let you adjust the bust to fit while keeping the shoulder proportion in sync with your other measurements. You can read more about FBAs for this style here.

Other Adjustments

The skirt’s length is easily adjusted – since the side seams are straight, you can add or remove the desired amount of length quite simply using the lengthen/shorten line.

If a forward shoulder adjustment is in your usual repertoire, it’s a simple one on this pattern, too! You’ll adjust the seam on the Front and Back like you would on any other bodice, then make a matching adjustment to the Front Sleeve and Back sleeve. I like to make the change down the entire shoulder seam of the sleeve to avoid a twist in the final sleeve.

One change that’s less of a fit adjustment and more of a design preference is a subtle reshaping of the neckline.

Make a Muslin

We do recommend that you make a muslin to check your fit and practice construction. Our most lovely, drapey and soft fabrics can be a precious commodity, so a muslin is a great idea! In a design like this, where drape is everything, I like to use a fabric from the clearance bin rather than actual muslin fabric. I found some challis that was in a louder print that I’d typically choose, but it was perfect for checking the fit! You may choose to simplify your muslin by skipping the pockets, ties, buttons, or bodice lining.