How to Do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on a Princess Seam Bodice

A video tutorial for the Ember Dress — and beyond

Sometimes, you fall in love with a pattern — only to find that the fit doesn’t quite love your body back. Maybe the bust pulls. Maybe the placket gaps. Maybe you’ve spent too much time adjusting your dress mid-wear when you’d rather just be moving freely through your day.

If this sounds familiar, a full bust adjustment (FBA) might be the missing piece.

(And if you’re not sure whether you need an FBA? You’ll find guidance in our FREE Bodice Fitting Guide, which can help you identify fit issues and decide. If, instead of a larger bust, you need a small bust adjustment (SBA), we have an SBA tutorial over here.)

OK, if you want to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) and your bodice has a princess seam (like our beloved Ember Dress sewing pattern), this video can guide you through the process.

Why an FBA is worth Your time

Your body is unique — and patterns, by necessity, are drafted for a standard. That’s not a problem; it’s just an invitation. A full bust adjustment is one way to tailor a pattern so it fits you.

Whether you’ve tried an FBA before or this is your first foray into fitting, this tutorial will walk you through how to adjust a bodice with a princess seam that runs to the shoulder. While the video focuses on the Ember Dress, the same principles apply to many princess-seamed bodices.

What you’ll learn in the video

• How to spot the signs that a full bust adjustment may be needed
• How to adjust a bodice on the seam lines for accuracy and fit integrity
• Options for redistributing (or removing) extra width at the waist
• How an FBA integrates with the Ember Dress pattern’s unique princess seam and skirt construction

Saremy uses half-scale pieces to demonstrate the process clearly and help you understand what’s happening — and why. It’s a thorough yet beginner-friendly approach that demystifies an often-intimidating topic.

Want to deepen your fitting skills?

This video is just one piece of a broader journey into bodice fitting. If you’re eager to understand more than just this one adjustment, we’ve created the perfect learning path for you.

Our Learn to Sew and Fit a Bodice course dives deeply into princess seam and darted bodices, showing you how to make muslins, assess fit, and make thoughtful changes with confidence.

And for an even deeper dive into fitting, check out our discounted Master Fitting Bundle — which includes guidance on both bodices and pants — so you can sew clothes that honor your body from shoulder to ankle.

You deserve clothes that feel like they were made for you — because they were. Fitting is a process of collaboration between your body, your mind, and the cloth in your hands. We’re here to support you in learning how.

Now let’s make that Ember Dress fit like a dream.