Lichen Duster Sew-Along Day 3: Assemble the Back

 So far, we have chosen our fabrics, tackled fitting, and carefully prepared the pieces. Today is the big day! We’ll start sewing with the Back.

If you don’t want to sew the seams pressed open with serged edges, see the Glossary of Seam Finishes for a method of clean finishing the seams without a serger. Flat-felled seams are an excellent choice here. Keep in mind that there are a few layers of fabric coming together at the tops of the gores, so it’s a good idea to press the seam allowances away from the gores. The seams of the Gore and Center Back would be pressed towards the center back for finishing, and the seams of the Gore and Side Back would be pressed towards the side for finishing. This will reduce the bulk in the waist seam.

To simply use a pressed open seam on the back gore seams, finish both edges of the Back Gores, both sides of the Center Back, and the longer edges of the Side Backs (the edge that is NOT the side seam. Don’t finish the side seam edge!)

.Pin the Back Gore to the Center Back Skirt, right sides together, matching notches, and sew.

Press the seam allowances open, or use your chosen seam finish. Repeat for the other Back Gore.

Pin Side Back to the Back Gore, right sides together, matching notches, and sew.

Press the seam allowance open or use your chosen seam finish. Repeat for the other Back Gore.

This completed piece is the Lower Back.

If you’ve chosen flat-felled seams, your Lower Back will look similar to this:

I’m using a French seam to attach the Back to the Lower Back. If you choose a different seam finish, remember to check whether you should be sewing the first pass with the right sides together, or the wrong sides together! The following steps are specific to the French seam. 

Pin the Back to the Lower Back that you just completed, at the waist, wrong sides together, lining up the double notch at the center and the single notches with the seams in the Lower Back. We’re making a French seam here, so be sure you’re pinning the Wrong Sides Together!

Sew with a ¼” (.6 cm) seam allowance. Press the seam open, then press the seam closed with the right sides together. Use steam, then pin in place.

Sew at ⅜” (.9 cm), enclosing the raw edge of the seam allowances. Press the seam allowance up.

High five to you – the Back is complete! Take a breather, and I’ll be back on Day 4 to get the pockets put together and assemble the Fronts.

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  1. Hello there! Love these pictures, they are so well photographed, and easy on the eyes! Question: I am prepping my duster, and I intend to use flat felled seams on the skirt back. In your picture above, showing the sample using flat felled seams, I’m not sure which side you are considering the right or wrong side. I’m trying to decide, when starting my flat felled seam, if my first seam will be with RST thereby resulting with one line of stitching showing on the RS, or WST thereby resulting with two lines of stitching showing on the RS. Do you recommend one way, versus another? Thank you so much! I’m using a midweight viscose linen blend (and fully interfacing the facings). – Julia

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