Finding a Quilt for the Retazo Coat

The Retazo Coat pattern includes instructions for making a quilt as you go fabric. But we know that not everyone has the scraps, or the time, to do this. It is also possible to use an existing quilt or pre-quilted fabric to make your Retazo Coat, or, as I did, to quilt up a “cheater cloth” and use that. 

A thrifted or vintage quilt is a great choice for Retazo. Often making a garment with a quilt that may be older or have some damage is a great way to give it new life. Just like with other fabric, you might want to prewash your quilt before cutting out your Retazo. 

Depending on the age of the quilt there are different ways to approach this. 

A thrifted quilt from the last couple of decades should hold up just fine in the washing machine on a regular cycle. Remember that quilts are meant to be loved, used, and washed, and that this process increases the crinkly plush nature of a quilt. 

For an older, inherited or vintage quilt, which may have some damage, stains, or worn fabric it is best to soak it in warm water in the bathtub with some gentle soap (I like soak, which I use for blocking knits) and letting it air dry. When laying out your pattern try to avoid torn or stained spots. If you can’t, patching them is a great option. It’s really hard to get out old, set in stains, and a patch extends the life of the quilt even more!

My Retazo Coat is made with a Ruby Star Society “cheater cloth” which just means a fabric printed with a patchwork design. But for the method I am about to describe you could use any fabric that you fall in love with. This method is also perfect for if your want to use a pieced quilt top, or want to make a specific type of patchwork such as a nine patch or flying geese, for your Retazo Coat 

I am lucky enough to be the daughter of a long arm quilter, so my mom quilted my fabric on her long arm machine and then I cut out my pattern pieces from this large quilted piece. You could also quilt a large cut of fabric on a domestic machine and then cut out your pattern pieces. 

Alternatively, if you aren’t crazy about quilting something large, or are working with a limited amount of fabric, you could cut out your pattern with your outer fabric, batting, and lining fabric, and then quilt each piece individually. You will want to add an extra inch around all of the pattern pieces, to allow for shrinkage while quilting. Once everything is quilted trim them up to the right size and you are ready to go!

I made the vest view of Retazo using a Merchant and Mills jacquard fabric. This fabric, while not quilted in the traditional sense has the heft and layers necessary to hold the shape of Retazo like a quilt. While this was the quickest to cut out, this fabric is difficult to sew and I would only recommend it for more advanced sewists. 

It is a good option if you want a solid color for your Retazo coat or vest. There are many other quilted and jacquard fabrics you can explore for this pattern. Using something like this is great if you have a very specific idea in mind for how your coat will fit into your wardrobe, have a bit less time to work on Retazo, or are newer to sewing outerwear. 

No matter what you choose, quilt as you go, prequilted, thrifted, etc, your Retazo Coat will be beautiful! We hope each time your wrap up in it you think of the wonderful history and community of quilting, sewing, and upcycle, and feel proud to be a part of it. 

Responses

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  1. I love the quilted vest view! Did you simply omit the collar in this version? Thank you – it’s such a beautiful pattern!

    1. Thank you! And yes, just skipped the collar and went directly to the facing. Sort of an anti-hack, haha, because it is a couple fewer steps.

  2. Where did you get the snaps for the Retazo Coat? Also, I got my pattern printed at the place in Brooklyn and have it cut out of an old quilt I had from my husband’s grandmother. I have a Brother machine and I am afraid it won’t be able to handle all the layers. Any suggestions? I am kinda looking for a new machine, but not sure what kind to get.
    Thanks,
    Melissa

  3. I made the coat and quilted each section then did binding to finish it off. I now want to make the vest version and have the jacquard fabric from merchant and mills, what did you do for the interfacing(all the components from step 1 basically) and bias facing- did you use just quilting cotton or were some of the steps skipped since fabric pre-quilted? Thanks

    1. Hi Julia! Great question. I interfaced as stated in the pattern. I used the jacquard for the neck and button band facings, and a quilting cotton for the bias facing on the pockets and at the hem.

  4. This vest version is beautiful! Why would you say the fabric is difficult to sew? I’d love to knock out a few of these for my daughters for gifts.

    1. Hi Mary, I used a Merchant and Mills jacquard, which is a lovely fabric, but has a looser weave than what I am used to. This gives the fabric a bit of stretch, so you just want to be careful when sewing the princess seams to not stretch the fabric and distort the shape. My vest came out well, and it is worth the extra effort, I just wouldn’t recommend this specific fabric for a newer sewist.