How to Do a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) on a Princess Seam Bodice
A tutorial for the Ember Dress — and other princess-seamed styles
Sometimes when you’re sewing a bodice, things almost fit. The shoulders lie just right, but there’s extra room through the bust — or maybe the bust fits well, but the armholes feel uncomfortably snug.
If this feels familiar, you might be in need of a small bust adjustment (SBA).
(Not sure if you need an SBA? You’ll find guidance in our FREE Bodice Fitting Guide, which can help you identify fit issues and decide. If, instead of a smaller bust, you need a full bust adjustment (FBA), we have an FBA tutorial over here.)
In this video tutorial, Saremy walks you through how to make this simple, effective adjustment using the Ember Dress as an example. The Ember features a princess seam that runs to the shoulder — but the techniques you’ll learn here can be applied to many princess-seamed bodices.
What is a Small Bust Adjustment?
A small bust adjustment helps remove fullness at the bust area so your garments lie smoothly and feel comfortable — without distorting the neckline, shoulders, or waist. It’s especially helpful if you find that you’re swimming in the bust of a pattern that otherwise fits you well.
What you’ll learn in the video
- How to reduce bust fullness on a bodice with a princess seam
- How to keep the waist and side seam lengths unchanged
- A quick trick for removing the princess seam entirely — no dart or shaping left behind
- How to true seams for a smooth finish and proper construction
You’ll also see how even a small change can make a big difference — in both comfort and confidence.
The Ember Dress makes it easy
One of the reasons we love using the Ember Dress for this tutorial is its gentle shaping. With a drawstring or elastic waist, the bodice is designed to be relaxed and forgiving — making this a great first project for learning how to do fit adjustments.
And if you’re looking to explore fitting more deeply — with bodices that include darts or other shaping styles — we’ve created a full course for you.
Ready to grow your fitting skills?
🧵 Learn to Sew and Fit a Bodice
This online course teaches you how to make muslins, assess bodice fit, and make personalized adjustments with confidence and care. You’ll work with the darted Hinterland bodice and get a solid foundation in fitting for your unique body.
📖 Download the Free Bodice Fitting Guide
Start by learning how to read your muslin, measure for adjustments, and approach fitting with curiosity rather than pressure.
🎥 Need a Full Bust Adjustment instead?
We’ve got you covered with a full tutorial on doing an FBA for a Princess Seam Bodice too.
Sew clothes that fit the life you actually live
Fitting isn’t about changing your body — it’s about changing the pattern so your clothes feel like you. Whether you’re reducing volume, adding shaping, or smoothing a seam, you’re learning the quiet magic of sewing for your real, beautiful self.
Now, let’s help that Ember Dress fit just right — with no excess, no strain, and no guesswork.
For the Ember dress, do you recommend choosing size based on the upper bust or the bust measurement?
I’m a small A cup, so I almost always do a SBA. My measurements are 32.5″ upper bust, 31.25″ bust, 25.5″ waist, and 35″ hip. Based on the Ember size chart that puts me between a size 8-10 for upper bust, 0-2 bust and waist, and 2-4 hips. (As this is my first time using a Sew Lib pattern, I’ll definitely be making a muslin!)
Hi Kristin! I consulted with Saremy, and she suggests cutting an 8 and grading the bust down a couple sizes, to a 4, and then doing a SBA. Making a muslin is a good idea, and you can also email us at support@sewliberated.com for more help as you go.
Hello Kristin!
Excellent question! I’d be happy to help you pick out a size. Based on your measurements, I suggest choosing the size 8 for the shoulder area and grading to a size 4 for the bust through waist of the bodice. And selecting the size 4 skirt. You’ll also want to grade the sleeve similarly-but with the gathers, this will be a forgiving size change if you don’t quite get it perfect.
I know the 4 doesn’t get down to your waist or bust size, but since this is a pull-on dress, we need it to be able to fit over your shoulders. This is why I suggest stopping at size 4 when you grade down. The muslin will help check this too.
Since you’ll still have a bodice larger than your bust circumference, you can still do an SBA. The princess seams give you a great opportunity to reduce the overall circumference- not just the bust shaping on the Front should you need it overall rather than the front. The Ember isn’t a tight fit, it’s designed to be loose so the muslin will inform any decisions for the bust circumference.
Good luck and I hope you enjoy your Ember Dress!
I’m in a similar situation. I think I need to grade from a 12 in the shoulders to 8 at bust/waist. (High bust 35”, bust 35”, waist 30”, hip 40.5”). If this is correct, where would you put the 0-0 point for the grading between two sizes with this princess pattern? Should I also do a SBA? For the skirt, should I keep an 8 since there is so much ease? Thanks!
Hi Caroline!
I think you will really appreciate making a muslin. I have two ideas for you and how I’d grade it below the ideas.
1) If you find that your usual struggle is with a bust that has too much cup volume, then I’d try the 12 in the shoulders, grade down to maybe a 10 and try an SBA to reduce the cup volume (and grading to 10 will still reduce the overall circumference). This way we leave space for your upper bust and shoulders but decrease the bust shaping.
2) And if you find that you don’t struggle with too much cup space, but just an overall excess of circumference around your chest level, then I’d suggest trying a bodice that is graded 12 to 8.
When you grade between sizes, blend between the upper bust and side seam. I like to section the bodice so it’s visually clear. Upper Bust and above = size 12. Bust and below = size 8. And in between these two sections we blend the grading from upper bust to the curve of the armhole and the side seam is size 8 (or 10). Choose size 8 (or 10) skirt. And I think I’d choose size 8 sleeve for less volume-but 10 could work as well especially if you have a full bicep. Since there are gathers, it’s going to be forgiving.
I think you only need to muslin the bodice (sleeves optional but only one would be necessary). And when you try it on, remember there is a casing so the waist will cinch in with the drawcord (you want the ease!). Good luck!
Using Saremy’s method in the video, is there an upper limit to how much I can reduce the side bust width? I am a 31.5″ full bust but 30.5″ upper bust so I’ve printed the size 2 but wondered if I could reduce the side bust by more than 0.5″ since the finished measurements seem quite generous at 36.25″. Could I reduce the bust by a total of 2″ (1″ at the side front bodice?)
Thank you
Hello Li Ann!
I think you can safely do this. The things I would consider: do you need to reduce the shaping volume (the curvature of the princess line)? Or the circumference-and is it total circumference or just across the front? Or a bit of both? You can also remove the princess seam altogether if that suits your needs too. If you’re reducing circumference (around the body or just across the front) it might be easier to reduce small amounts at each seam rather than all in one location. And remember, any change that affects the armhole seam, affects the sleeve too. I strongly suggest a muslin/sample too. You can always apply the SBA you have in mind. sew the four bodice pattern pieces (center front and back, Side front and back) and try this on. Now you can drape the bodice on your body which will give you a clearer picture. And don’t forget there is a waist casing to give you blousing so it’s not a close fitting bodice.
Thanks Saremy. Actually I quite like a more fitted bodice and my main concern is gaping at the bust when i lean forward which is always a worry with small bustedness but we still have the same shoulder/armhole requirements! So I think you are right about the curvature of the princess line which your adjustment takes care of, the front bodice is usually fits me quite well just not the fullness if there is only a 1″ difference between high bust and bust. Much appreciated.
Great plan! Make sure you stay stitch the neckline. With the diagonal of the V neck, it can easily get stretched out and add to your gaping concern. I’m pretty sure it’s the Ember I made the directional sewing video for… yes! It is. But if you follow the instructions even though it seems like it’s overkill- it really is not! It’ll help keep it all in shape! Happy sewing!