How to Do a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) on a Princess Seam Bodice

A tutorial for the Ember Dress — and other princess-seamed styles

Sometimes when you’re sewing a bodice, things almost fit. The shoulders lie just right, but there’s extra room through the bust — or maybe the bust fits well, but the armholes feel uncomfortably snug.

If this feels familiar, you might be in need of a small bust adjustment (SBA).

(Not sure if you need an SBA? You’ll find guidance in our FREE Bodice Fitting Guide, which can help you identify fit issues and decide. If, instead of a smaller bust, you need a full bust adjustment (FBA), we have an FBA tutorial over here.)

In this video tutorial, Saremy walks you through how to make this simple, effective adjustment using the Ember Dress as an example. The Ember features a princess seam that runs to the shoulder — but the techniques you’ll learn here can be applied to many princess-seamed bodices.

What is a Small Bust Adjustment?

A small bust adjustment helps remove fullness at the bust area so your garments lie smoothly and feel comfortable — without distorting the neckline, shoulders, or waist. It’s especially helpful if you find that you’re swimming in the bust of a pattern that otherwise fits you well.

What you’ll learn in the video

• How to reduce bust fullness on a bodice with a princess seam
• How to keep the waist and side seam lengths unchanged
• A quick trick for removing the princess seam entirely — no dart or shaping left behind
• How to true seams for a smooth finish and proper construction

You’ll also see how even a small change can make a big difference — in both comfort and confidence.

The Ember Dress makes it easy

One of the reasons we love using the Ember Dress for this tutorial is its gentle shaping. With a drawstring or elastic waist, the bodice is designed to be relaxed and forgiving — making this a great first project for learning how to do fit adjustments.

And if you’re looking to explore fitting more deeply — with bodices that include darts or other shaping styles — we’ve created a full course for you.

Ready to grow your fitting skills?

🧵 Learn to Sew and Fit a Bodice
This online course teaches you how to make muslins, assess bodice fit, and make personalized adjustments with confidence and care. You’ll work with the darted Hinterland bodice and get a solid foundation in fitting for your unique body.

📖 Download the Free Bodice Fitting Guide
Start by learning how to read your muslin, measure for adjustments, and approach fitting with curiosity rather than pressure.

🎥 Need a Full Bust Adjustment instead?
We’ve got you covered with a full tutorial on doing an FBA for a Princess Seam Bodice too.

Sew clothes that fit the life you actually live

Fitting isn’t about changing your body — it’s about changing the pattern so your clothes feel like you. Whether you’re reducing volume, adding shaping, or smoothing a seam, you’re learning the quiet magic of sewing for your real, beautiful self.

Now, let’s help that Ember Dress fit just right — with no excess, no strain, and no guesswork.