Using Narrow Fabric for the Petrichor Pinafore

We all love how the Petrichor Pinafore has so much swing, and we need some amount of fabric width to achieve that swing.

All sizes of the Petrichor Pinafore will fit onto 54″ (137 cm) wide fabric, but what about 45″ (114 cm) wide fabric? This style is appropriate in a soft cotton ikat or double gauze, and these fabrics often come in a narrower width.

Fear not! If you have fallen in love with a narrow fabric, I’m here to demonstrate how you can still use it for your Pinafore.

Alternative Cutting Layout for the Petrichor Pinafore

For a layout with the fabric folded selvage to selvage, the width of the Back pattern piece will determine if you need this alternate layout. Many sizes will fit onto 45″ fabric – if you have your fabric already, you can fold it and see if it works. If the Back pattern piece is too wide, follow along below for our step-by-step layout. I am using a bright cotton for demonstrating, with a clear one-way design for visibility – keep in mind that a quilting cotton might be too stiff for this style’s aesthetic.

I’ll be demonstrating with size 28 of the Petrichor Pinafore.

How to cut out your Petrichor Pinafore

Step 1

Estimate how much fabric you will need. I’m using some yardage I have on hand already, and once I know how much is needed I’ll purchase that linen / cotton gauze I have my eye on. On a single layer of fabric, lay out pattern pieces paying attention to grainlines. Don’t forget: you’ll need a second set of straps, so make sure you leave space for them! Also, we can’t cut the Front pattern piece on the fold anymore, so we’ll be adding a seam allowance: Leave room for an extra 5/8″ (1.6 cm) along the center front.

Once pieces are placed, measure the yardage used and double it to get your final amount needed. I measured 46″, rounded that up to 1 1⁄3 yards and then doubled for 2 2⁄3 yards. I know my gauze will shrink when I prewash it, so I might even get 2 3⁄4 yards to be safe.

Step 2

Fold fabric in half from cut edge to cut edge. If your fabric does not have a one way design or a nap, you may jump to step 4! If you do have one-way fabric, right now the two layers are oriented in different directions. Let’s fix that.

Step 3

Cut carefully along the folded edge. Then rotate the top fabric layer 180 degrees so that the direction of the two layers match. Align selvages and smooth out both layers.

Now our layers match and we can lay out our pattern pieces!

Step 4

Add a 5/8″ (1.6 cm) seam allowance to the center Front pattern piece. To sew this, follow the steps for sewing the Back seam in your instructions – steps 6a and 6b. Be sure to stop sewing the seam 5/8″ (1.6 cm) from the top edge of the Front so you can attach it to the Front Yoke correctly!

Once you have marked the new center Front cutting line, place the remaining pattern pieces and cut. Don’t forget your second set of straps! I placed mine just under the arm bias pieces.

Now I cannot wait to make my linen/cotton gauze Petrichor Pinafore! I expect it will be on heavy rotation once the warmer weather really arrives.